Nathdwara: A Timeless Destination

A 2 hour flight to Maha Rana Pratap Airport in Udaipur and then another 2 hours max drive to the Nathdwara and I landed in Shrinathji’s home on 2nd Jan 2007. A perfect way to start the New Year.
There is a docking area for cars in the outskirt of Nathdwara. Cars don’t go beyond that point. As you step out of the car, you see hoards of hotel staff members running to your car with a smile and an anticipation of some easy chai-panni. But that’s anywhere and to a certain extent its good since it provides you with an assurance of some quality in service.
The smell, the scenery, the ambiance and the general ease in the air assures you that you have come to a Holy place. As you enter the main market and the walk on the small streets towards your hotel, you see that nothing, nothing has changed at all. The same country side appeal mixed with the resonance of sadhus’ chants, decorated food-stalls with nets around the foods, the cows, pigs, some remodeled eateries, tiny houses and wires dangling from every side of the road.
Technologically, you find few new developments – some electronic message displayers stating the time for the next darshan, some signs showing internet connections in a place that seems like traditional coffee hut, and few billboards here and there. Other than that, it is the exact same place. Standing there quietly untouched and intact with its focus- Shrinathji. As you walk by streets after streets, you will hear bhakti songs from Smarnanjallika or then new bhajans in praise of the Lord. The same trinket outlets, spice shops, shoe/sandal shacks. The same sweet nostalgic smell of burning milk, captivating aroma of loose earth and mud, cow-dung and fragrance of fresh flowers greet you.
Hawkers, beggars, and locals start speaking to you as if they know you for years. Of this, Maharajs or other sadhus those who have affiliation with the temple will perturb you the most. “ I will get you VIP access to the Darshan in the temple.” As if going to a temple is like visiting CXOs. And then you see the door to the temple. All else can change and not change, you know that you are assured if not a few minutes, atleast a few seconds in front of the Lord; when time comes, when right time for darshan arrives and when you have to jostle through a minimum of two-three thousand people in space meant for a 100 people.
So, that’s Nathdwara in a gist.
We checked in at a hotel called Vrinda. The same lobby (for twenty years), same bell-boys, the same couches in the reception and you know the Hotel truly signifies and justifies the timelessness of Nathdwara. The rooms are minimal, yet sufficient. Two beds, a wall-closet and a dressing table from the ‘60s. There is a feeling of being home and then there is a feeling of being invited. No matter how cozy five star services will get, in a place like Vrinda, everyone feels invited, no matter what.
We go for Rajbhog, and the late morning acesss in the temple seems simple enough. Although there is a complete lack of organization going into the room where the Lord resides, the rhapsody of the chants, the unanimous prayers and sincere devotion is the most enrapturing feeling. I might have thought a few consulting points for the temple to improve its condition, but the minute I stepped out of the darshan in front of the lord, I was rendered thoughtless. What Grace, What Swaroop, What Power and Magnificence.
After going for a few remaining heartfelt prayers and chants in the afternoon, we sleep early for the main event. The 4 AM darshan next day,“The Mangla”. Un-linear queues get formed at the gate and then doorman announces its time to go in through rooms en-route to the final room. People rush inside this ancient palace like temple. In an effort to get few seconds again in the front of the Lord so magnificently dressed, we forget the intensely cold marble stones we were walking on, the thousand people flooding in from different gates and few slippery surfaces that lay ahead of us. Patience is the order of the day and finally in the last few minutes of closing time, I get about 10 seconds right in the front of the Lord (which was the only most orderly line). Such Beauty.
Finally, in the afternoon, I left Nathdwara with same feeling of satisfaction, the reverie and spiritual rhapsody that I have felt for years. Although, I still wish pushing through the unorderly crowd and queue system can be changed, I cannot help but feel the one quality about certain places in our country.
The Timelessness.
The Walls, the décor, the streets and the people echo centuries of establishment, systems and processes. Practices that have originated beyond the memories and knowledge of the modern man.
A Faith which draws millions every year to places of worship. Rich, abled, poor, disabled all in unison in front of the Lord.
Their prayers of love, devotion, hope, despair and gratitude.
Nathdwara is truly one to hit the list as one of the many places to travel and pray to connect you to wisdom and methods of our ancestors, the presence of the Lord in front of you now, and witness to prayers chanted in oneness for a brighter future for everyone - all endowed in one Timeless place of worship.